Parete del Pilonetto di Balme

Parete del Pilonetto di Balme

Cliffs / Climbing

Dedicated to the local guide Antonio Castagneri, called Toni dei Tuni

Approach:  The trail begins at the last curve of the road that goes up to Pian della Mussa.  You may park the car in a road widening just before arriving at the house just in front of the town aqueduct reservoir.  The rocky structure is unique as a votive shaft stands right on top of it and stands out among the pines of the summit.  You reach it in about 5 minutes, by following the almost horizontal trail track.

The height of the rocky structure varies from 40 to 45 m.  From the top, it is possible to enjoy a splendid view of the valley below and of the rocky buttresses standing above the Balme village.  Many ibexes are here present for the visitors’ pleasure.  A spring spurting out of a small cave at the wall base is the peculiarity of the site.  On this wall, a climbing route already existed in the area of well-structured rocks, which had been realized by Marco Blatto.  The route goes through the central crack (traditional pitons are in the wall – difficulty level 4 and 5).

Gian Carlo Grassi, when still living, had already visited this rocky wall.

The route had been nailed starting from the lower part but, since it is not very often visited, it is necessary to foresee autonomous protection where necessary.


  1. Pampugnet galet –  6 a (variation to the right 5+)
  2. Rata vuloira – 6 a+
  3. Bertumol – 6 a
  4. Girabarchin – 6 a+
  5. Prusot – 6 a+
  6. Mecu – 6b+
  7. Aride placchette – 6c+
  8. Eclissi totale di cuore – 6c+
  9. Sul filo del rasoio – 6b+