Balme
Ice Falls
The beginner in search of the first experiences may practice on some short waterfalls on the northern side of Val d’Ala, just before the village of Ala di Stura. After the suburb of Mondrone, to the orographic left side of the valley, the icy gorges of the stream descending from the Vallonetto valley have been climbed. Then there are the famous and popular classic Pontat Falls. Finally, just beyond Balme, a theatre of waterfalls is located on the rocky cliffs that surround Pian della Mussa. This site counts approximately twenty waterfalls, not all of which have been climbed, and is one of the most interesting places for ice climbing in the Lanzo Valleys. Some of these waterfalls are among the most difficult in Piedmont. Sometimes, under particular environmental conditions, the steep rocky ridges and walls closing the main valley change appearance. In these circumstances beautiful ice couloirs appear which, in spite of significant elevation gain and difficulty, can be climbed in absolute safety. This wintry and spring activity is now one of the most fascinating attractions of modern mountaineering.
ROCCA S.A.R.I.
Site created for beginners approaching the practice of ice climbing on waterfalls, it is also a valid fallback in case of bad weather in the area. Since 2010, this boulder has been equipped, with the permission of Balme municipality, by volunteers of the Piedmontese Mountain Rescue teams of Ala di Stura and Balme. It presents 6 artificial tappings and 6 resin belays on the the boulder top. The vertical development of the routes goes from 12 to 15 meters with varying difficulties increasing from 55° / 60° to 90°. Due to the boulder morphology, the climber will find routes reproducing a gully, an initial vertical wall with subsequent leaning slope, and candles-stalactites.
ACCESS: Park the car just outside the village of Balme, along the road that leads to Pian della Mussa, cross the wooden bridge on the left leading to the skating rink and the start of cross-country skiing track (2 minutes).
DESCENT: Top-rope or double rope on resin belays and chains.
NOTE: The pouring of water depends on seasonal temperatures. Usually, in the last few years, it is possible to start climbing in early January.
PONTAT WATERFALLS
Elevation gain: Big Waterfall 60 m, Small Waterfall 40 m
Difficulty: AD/D according to the route
Exposure: North
Altitude: 1650 m
Climbing time: Different for each waterfall
ACCESS: Follow road signs from Torino to Lanzo and Balme then reach Località Cornetti at 1432m. From the village go up the Vallone Paschiet always following its left hydro-orographic side. Go beyond Località Fré up to the junction of Rio Paschiet and Rio Pontat, from where you will shortly reach the base of the two waterfalls (0,40 – 1 hr).
ROUTES:
BIG WATERFALL: The climbing begins from the central part where the the slope is steep and following a more or less direct line. At about 35-40 m from the end, the waterfall considerably leans to the left. Move then to the right side in order to overtake a steep gully which gives access to the easier final part on the left side: 60°-75° slope, while the right side offers vertical rock walls.
SMALL WATERFALL: It may be overtaken right at the center part, steeper and more difficult, by directly surmounting a characteristic swelling. It is then possible to easily exit at the summit or, by moving completely to the right side, to climb a last and interesting small wall.
Should there little snow covering, a third waterfall, easier than the two above described, is accessible a little farther to the left.
DESCENT: From the exit of the waterfalls, shortly cross the plateau going back to the base of a gully on their right. 15’-20’ walk.
NOTE: The two waterfalls are parallel and not very far away, just divided by a rocky cliff. They are clearly visible from the Albaron village, before reaching Balme, not far from the country road.
They are a pleasant field of average difficulty activity, suitable to people who do not yet master the piolet-traction technique. For such reason these waterfalls are, nowadays, the most frequented by mountain climbers.
The two waterfalls are parallel and not very far away, just divided by a rocky cliff. They are clearly visible from the Albaron village, before reaching Balme, not far from the country road.
They are a pleasant field of average difficulty activity, suitable to people who do not yet master the piolet-traction technique. For such reason these waterfalls are, nowadays, the most frequented by mountain climbers.